Wine & Words

Utiel-Requena DO We visited this region, on the high elevation meseta just on the edge of Castilla-La Mancha. We drove between mountains from Xativa, west then north, into an area of extensive vineyards but left behind the fruit orchards, the olive trees, the cactus and rosemary of the Mediterranean climate. The temperature is Xativa was 15° C., while up in Utiel it never got above 8°, with a heavy, depressing cloud cover. We parked in front of a little workman’s café by the train station, got a quick café con leche, then went to check out the Museu de Vinos, located in an old bodega (winery).

I went into the Consejo Regulador for the Utiel-Requena DO and asked whether we could see the museum. The man there told me he would call a compañera who would give us a tour. I asked if the tour would be in English, and he replied, “Cualquiera tu quieres” (whatever you want). The young woman who was to be our guide took us into the large, round building (the bodega redonda), saying her English was “no so good” but that she would try. She showed us around the old building (which was freezing inside…good for winemaking, but not good for the comfort of my other compañera – Yvonne) pointing out how the grapes were brought in at the upper level, poured down a central shoot, then the juice pressed into tile-lined vats that surrounded the central chamber. The vats are now open rooms, containing displays of various winemaking and vineyard devices, such as hooked pruners, sulfur sprayers and plows. The rooms that used to be vats are now covered in white stucco, but our guide pointed out that they used to be white tile, so they could be cleaned. As the wine never reached the level of the arched ceilings of the vats, these were covered with a motley assortment of hand-painted tiles (azulejos) from wherever they could be gotten. The upstairs level was dedicated to the various prizes and awards the Utiel-Requena wines have won. There was also a wall of famosas Españolas (“famous Spanish people”) who had visited the Consejo Regulador. Most of them were Spanish movie and sports stars who were unrecognizable to us even when she told us their names. But one couple was very recognizable. It was King Juan Carlos and Queen Sophia, the king being depicted with a very large glass of red wine in his hand. Our guide told us “a el Rey le gusta mucho el vino” (“the king likes wine very much”). It’s great to be in a wine loving country!

Selección de Otoño Crianza 2004 (€6.50, Cherubino Valsangiacomo, SA) A blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet (which the Spanish pronounce “ka-bare-net”, not ca-bare-nay in that wimpy French fashion). Nice drinking food wine but nothing really special. Similar to a lot of Cab blends we get in the states.

Castillo de Utiel Reserva 2000 (€4.40) I got this one at El Corte Ingles in Valencia, and it’s one of the best we had. 12.5% alcohol made it perfect for the pork roast we served it with. It doesn’t say the grape, and I would expect Bobal from Utiel, but it tasted more like Tempranillo – like an excellent Rioja. This is one to look for, though I doubt we can get any 2000 Reservas in the States.

Coto D’Arcis Bobal 2004 (€4.00) From Sebiran, SL (www.bodegassebiran.com). What a find! This is the best single varietal Bobal I’ve ever had. It brought out the grapes fullness and roundness. Deep purple, laced with violet hues. We had this with a dinner of stuffed pork chops, but it would be an excellent all-around sipper.

They also do Tempranillo in Utiel-Requena and we purchased the Marqués de Chivé Crianza 2004 at El Corte Ingles in Valencia. Only 12.5% alcohol gave a light body for food, and it was tasty but nothing special. It’s made by a large producer, Vicente Gandia Pla, SA, in Chiva, just outside of Valencia. The label on the bottle was in Spanish, English, German, French and Polish…so I guess they export it. We might be able to find it at home.