Wine & Words

 
Back when we opened the original Wine & Words in Belhaven, one of the small distributors who helped me find my way was Lee Scanlon, who did business from Kill Devil Hills as Cape Distributing. Lee helped me develop the original wine list and build it with new styles and origins. A couple of years ago, Lee sold Cape Distributing to The Country Vintner, a distributor from Virginia that made its presence in North Carolina by purchasing Sante in Durham. Country Vintner then sent me a sales rep named Mary Mehlich…who I recruited to become the Manager of Wine & Words…& Gourmet in Washington. Small world, this wine business, especially in downeast North Carolina. Now Lee and his partner, Elizabeth Cooper (who also helped in those early days and is now working on her second level of sommelier certification), are doing business as Ocean South Importers out of Wilmington.
 
So when Lee sent us a copy of his new list and asked if we’d like to taste some wines, Mary and I jumped at the chance. One Thursday afternoon a couple of weeks ago, we tasted some dozen wines (it’s a tough job, but somebody’s got to do it). These three were our favorites of that tasting, and are great introductions to our holiday season lineup.
 
Leo Hillinger Secco (Burgenland, Austria) Regular Price $18.25, Feature Price $14.60
 
We start with a delightful sparkling wine from Austria. It’s made from 100% Pinot Noir (which the Austrians call Blauburgunder). Called “Secco,” which you know means “Dry,” it’s like a very light Pinot Noir with bubbles. It’s a lovely pale pink color and would look good on any holiday table, whether to begin a feast, to accompany a meal, or as a festive companion to canapés and tapas.
 
This is a very modern style for Austria, which is trying to break out of centuries of hidebound tradition to bring some flashy notice to the international wine world.  It’s made by the Charmat method, in stainless steel tanks, rather than the more traditional made-in-the-bottle méthode champenoise. This gives the wine a refreshing brightness without the yeasty fussiness you can sometimes get with Champagne wines.
 
Leo Hillinger is one of the prominent innovators in Austria, even having won an award for his ultra-modern winery building. The Hillinger family has managed vineyards for generations in Jois in Burgenland in northeast Austria on the border with Hungary. Then, in 1990, Leo - after a long apprenticeship and many years of travel in Germany and California - took over the wine estate and began the structural reforms that made it a top wine-growing enterprise in the Neusiedl Lake region within a few years. 
 
Good job, Leo. Let’s unwrap the silvery foil, pop the cork, and celebrate!
 
Viña Indómita Pinot Noir 2008 (Casablanca Valley, Chile) Regular Price $14.95/ Feature Price $11.96
 
If you prefer your Pinot Noir in a fuller bodied style than the Hillinger, you’ll love this new one from Chile’s Casablanca Valley, which is becoming one of the hot regions for Southern Hemisphere Pinot Noir. Indeed, the name of the producer - “Indómita” - means “rebellious.” These folks are out to make some noise in the wine world.
 
Mary and I like this wine because it is rich, well-balanced and very smooth. It has all of Pinot Noir’s food friendliness, as well as a price that beats the pants off those pricey California models. At the Feature Price, you can afford several bottles for that holiday party or feast you’re planning.
 
Château de Vaugelas Corbières La Prieuré 2007 (Languedoc, France) Regular Price $14.95, Feature Price $11.96
 
This wine got one of those “yummy” looks from Languedoc mapMary and me at our afternoon tasting. Not only because I’m a sucker for this kind of Rhone-style blend, but because at this price point the wine is a downright steal. 
 
The blend of 35% Syrah, 30% Carignan, 30% Grenache & 5% Mourvedre gives the wine a depth and complexity that would pair well with a wide range of seasonal foods. And the balance and finesse make it a good companion for holiday thoughts by the fire.
 
The vineyard Château de Vaugelas calls La Prieuré (The Priory) was once part of the Abbaye de Lagrasse, whose vineyards were first planted by Benedictine monks in the 18th century. That’s a fine pedigree, but the folks at Vaugelas go a step further. They’ve formed an alliance with Bordeaux in the person of winemaker Georges Pauli of Château Gruaud-Larose, a classified growth in St. Julien. The Bordelais touch gives the wine great richness and velvety tannins. This is the kind of wine we’re always looking for. Thanks, Lee and Elizabeth.